Trip to the Mentawai Islands
- Olga Kurak
- Feb 23, 2024
- 11 min read
Updated: Mar 22
Today I will be a travel blogger 😊
In the previous post, during the interview with Tony (you can read our interview here), he mentioned the Mentawai Islands. Santiago and I also went there, and let me tell you, it was more than just a journey — it was a full-blown adventure, and I'm excited to share it with you today.
But before we dive in, let me give you a quick rundown so you don't have to scour Google:
Where are these islands located?
The Mentawai Islands (or Kepulauan Mentawai in Indonesian) form a cluster of 70 islands situated in western Indonesia.
Why are they famous in the world?
The goal of tourists who travel to these islands is surfing. Professional surfers, just enthusiasts of this sport, come here from all over the world to catch the best waves.
I guess, after reading the above, you might think, "Oh, she also surfs."
I'll say right away - no. I have a very nice pink surfboard, with which I take great photos and it's also very cool to sit on it in the ocean, rock on the waves, and communicate with people around who are waiting for the waves. My surfing skills are still a work in progress. To be honest, I'm afraid of the water, that I'll bump into people, or people will bump into me, that I'll break something or lose my teeth (these are real stories that happen in the ocean). So today I'm going to the beach with Santiago and his friends to watch him and others surf, while I wait on the shore with a book and a coconut.
Santiago makes the trip to the Mentawai Islands one to two times a year, blending work and leisure. And in the spring of 2022, I went with him for the first time. Honestly, he didn't delve into the details of the trip, he said "It'll take us two days to reach our destination—two flights, followed by a ferry ride — and then, we'll find ourselves in paradise." Two days to paradise, I thought to myself, and didn't press for further details.
How did we get from Bali to these islands?
Our destination: Surf Delights Camping (you can find them on Instagram @surfdelights) nestled on the southwest coast of Siberut Island—the largest island in the Mentawai archipelago.
First flight: Denpasar - Jakarta - duration 2 hours.
In Jakarta, transfer to a plane to the city of Padang - the capital and largest city of West Sumatra province. Waiting between flights, if there are no delays, can be from 2 to 4 hours. The duration of the second flight is approximately 1 hour.
We arrive in Padang in the evening and spend the night there.
In the morning at 7 a.m., we take a ferry to Siberut Island. Depending on the weather, this takes 3-4 hours.
Then everyone disperses on local motorboats, wherever they need to go.
To our destination, we had an additional 2 hours of travel time, which also depends on the weather.
Summary: We left home in Bali at 7 a.m. and arrived at Surf Delights the following evening. The total duration was about 34 hours. Traveling to Ukraine takes me approximately the same amount of time, sometimes even less. 😊
Let me show you our route on the map
And now, let's dive into the details of our journey to the Mentawai Islands. 😊
Flight.
We only fly on domestic flights with Citilink. Tickets may be slightly more expensive than other carriers, but it offers the best value for money: clean aircraft cabins, fewer flight delays and cancellations compared to others, and excellent service. We usually travel with our surfboards, at least two for him and one for me. So we arrive at the airport at least an hour before departure to check in our gear. Domestic flights are often crowded with locals carrying lots of luggage, so check-in takes some time.
Padang City.
I can't say much about the city. We always arrived in the evening and only saw the city from the taxi windows and when we went out for dinner after checking in. Once, the driver took us on a tour of the "landmarks" (in his words) on the way to the hotel, and we saw the largest mosque and the city center, as well as various government buildings. To be honest, what I saw didn't impress me much.
We don't have a favourite hotel in the city. We stayed in different ones, and they all seemed pretty similar to me. We book a 4-star hotel on www.booking.com, priced at $40-60 for two with breakfast, closer to the ferry departure point to save time in the morning.
Padang is known for its cuisine, commonly referred to as Padang food. The staples of these dishes include coconut milk, curry, chilli peppers, rice, chicken, beef, fish, and seafood. While traveling, I always try something new that's characteristic of the local area. After all my attempts, I didn't become a fan of Padang food. Everything is very spicy, fatty, and fried. Breakfasts at hotels are tailored to local tourists. The menu usually includes various types of nasi goreng (fried rice) and noodles, fried chicken, slices of cheese and plastic ham, lots of sweet pastries, colourful jelly desserts, bread, fried eggs, coffee, and orange drinks, although calling them coffee and juice is a stretch. 😊
The Mentawai Fast Ferry.
We made it to the ferry terminal about an hour ahead of departure time. The ferry is the only link for Mentawai residents to civilization, from where they bring everything to Siberut, and then to the smaller islands.
It's still dark and damp outside at this time. After a night of rain, there are many puddles mixed with mud and garbage. Garbage is everywhere. People, children, bundles, boxes... Everyone is shouting, chatting loudly, carrying things, rushing about. And the smells – in such places, blending together, they're always unique. I often remember places by their scent. If I were suddenly transported there with my eyes closed and not told where I was, I'd immediately recognise that blend of various scents: people, food, water, rain, and dirt.
The long line at the ticket counter to purchase tickets and check in our surfboards. Let me tell you, constantly lugging them around, checking them in, picking them up, finding a spot for them – it's no easy feat.
We splurged on seats in the upper class. The difference from the lower class? Well, we had comfy chairs, air conditioning, and a TV. Meanwhile, others sat upstairs on benches, cooled by the constant ocean breeze. No internet, no mobile reception everywhere.
Siberut island. Motorboat.
We sailed for 4 hours, fortunate with the weather. If conditions are bad, the ferry doesn't run, so there's always a chance of getting stuck on the island for a few extra days, as happened to us on another trip.
Upon arriving at the pier, Santiago instructed me to wait while he went to find our boat. As I sat on a post, observing the unloading process and scanning the surroundings, it felt like I was watching a scene straight out of the Discovery Channel. I'd never been in places quite like this before, never seen people living like this, except perhaps in travel documentaries.
Santiago returned, saying he found our boat. Now, we needed to eat because we still had at least another 2 hours of sailing, plus the guys needed to load our boxes of supplies and other things onto the boat. It was hot. We headed to a local café, buzzing with flies. A woman in a hijab gestured to ask us what we wanted to eat.
And again, the smells. Curry, chili, human sweat, and the nearby toilets.
Leaning in to my husband, I whispered, asking if he was sure about eating here.
In his usual laid-back manner, Santiago assured me, "Of course, I eat here all the time, and Guto only eats here." Guto, his friend, was the reason for our visit. Only locals were dining around us. The four surfers who had been on the ferry with us were nowhere to be seen.
I ordered fish in coconut milk with curry, chili, and rice, and Santiago got chicken with rice. Everything was very spicy. Spiciness tends to dull the flavors, in my opinion; all you feel is the burning sensation in your mouth, and nothing else. But I ate; we barely had breakfast, and I quietly longed for the breakfast that seemed too Indonesian for me in the morning. Then we moved on to another "café," where we ordered instant coffee, bought some cookies for dessert, and water for the road.
Then we decided to head back because the guys were probably ready to set sail. As we approached the pier, I saw only one small wooden boat, its paint long faded. The entire boat was loaded and covered with blue plastic. Two men waved to us. I understood – this was our boat.
"Santi, are we going to sail on this boat for 2 hours?"
"Yeah."
"You never said it'd be some DIY boat with a motor slapped on the back."
"Well, it'll all be fine. Don't worry."
"How far from the shore will we be? If something happens, can we make it back to land?"
"Amor, we've got surfboards; we can paddle wherever we need to."
In the passenger area were our belongings, plus packages that needed to be kept away from the water.
We sat down. Being short, I could even lie down, using my backpack as a pillow. Next to me were some dirty life jackets. But hey, better to have them than not. Off we went.
This boat in the ocean bounced on the waves like a ball; a few times, I hit my head against the ceiling, sometimes feeling like I might lose my lunch. Sometimes, I just focused on a spot in the ocean, trying to calm my spinning head and queasy stomach.
Santi had a great time on the journey, playing games on his phone, watching pre-downloaded videos, and saying it was all nothing. Last time he rode in the rain, and it was full of water inside, everything was wet, and the waves were much bigger than now. At that moment, I made a note to myself: next time we go to some island he's been to, I'll ask more detailed questions about the journey.
The Island. Chill time.
How do you imagine a paradise? If it's an endless line of beach with white sand, small mountains, and palm trees, that's exactly what the place we arrived at looked like. It was paradise.
The name of the campsite we finally reached is Surf Delights. I'd call it an eco-campsite. We stayed in tents for 12 days.
Outdoor amenities. Shower – water barrels filled daily by staff, water heated by the sun, using a ladle, you wash up.
Local women cooked the food, but the owner controls the recipes and menu, so the presentation and flavors were closer to Brazilian cuisine. It was delicious. The resort owners are a family from Brazil who have lived in Indonesia for many years.
Whether you're dining in a wooden gazebo, relaxing in a hammock by the tent, or taking a "shower" with a ladle, everywhere you have a view of the ocean.
What to do on the island?
If you're a surfer, you surf multiple times a day. The guys also went fishing in the ocean,
which we then cooked over a fire in the evening. While we were there, the owner invited a local guy who does tattoos the old-school way, just like his ancestors did for generations. I didn't get a tattoo, but some of the guests did, and the locals also came to get one.
Time seems to stretch out endlessly on the island. The internet is super unreliable and weak. Without the usual distractions, everything just slows down. By the third or fourth day, I couldn't remember how many days I'd been there or even what day of the week it was.
So, what did I actually do there?
Remember, I'm not a surfer! 😊 Despite bringing my surfboard along, I never even used it there. The ocean was just about twenty meters from our tent, with a gentle entry, so I spent several times a day jumping in the waves, diving, and simply rejoicing like a kid. As for the dress code? Bikinis all the time, or sometimes shorts and a sarong (a cloth that's often wrapped around the waist, commonly worn in countries across Asia and North Africa; nowadays, it's a trendy clothing accessory among tourists) when it was time to grab a bite.
My mornings typically began around 5 a.m., while everyone else in the camp was still fast asleep. I'd take off on a barefoot run along the shoreline, covering about 2-3 kilometers one way and back. The coolness of the early morning and the serene beauty of the beach made these runs truly magical. Upon returning to camp, I'd take a dip in the ocean. Then, it was time for breakfast, followed by lively conversations with friends and fellow guests. The guys would talk about the waves.
In Jakarta Airport, there's a good bookstore in the waiting area, and we always buy books there. During this vacation, I read Stephen Hawking's book "Brief Answers to the Big Questions." If you weren't very interested in physics in school, like me, but as you get older, you start to wonder about the world and the cosmos, when the term "space tourism" doesn't sound so fantastic anymore, Musk talks about trips to Mars, and scientists are concerned about the rapid development of artificial intelligence - then this book is for you.
Next to the camp, about 200 meters into the jungle, there was a small village. I don't know if there are even a hundred residents there. We'd walk there to buy mosquito repellent (without it, I wouldn't have survived; mosquitoes attack people in the evening), or some other odds and ends. We'd also stroll around the village, see how people live, and how their lifestyle has remained almost unchanged for centuries. Although the settlement is very small, there's a school, a very small clinic, and even two churches: Christian and Muslim.
We also went to see a cave with birds. Thousands of birds live in the cliff's crevice. You go inside, and the birds start flying around - it's so beautiful.
In the evenings, we'd gather to watch the sunset, have a beer, and chat by the fire.
All these actions repeated. So, closer to the end of the vacation, I completely lost track of time. It felt like we were there for eternity, but this eternity wasn't tiring; it was very calm and relaxed. There's probably no better place in the world to "stop."
On the 12th day of the vacation, we returned to civilization. The whole village saw us off. Laughter, shouts, men pushing the boat into the water, we're carrying our stuff, kids are jumping around, and for some reason, there are a lot of boxes and packages again.
The return journey.
We returned by a slightly different route. One of the guests returning with us, an Australian named Greg, advised us not to stay overnight in Padang. We would get to the port by motorboat, then take tickets for another larger ferry that transports cars, other bulky items, and more people. According to Greg, the ferry sails all night, arriving in Padang in the morning, from where we would immediately head to the airport without staying in a hotel.
At first, I was glad there would be fewer transfers, but upon settling into the cabin, which turned out to be a staff resting area rented out to tourists like us, I wasn't as thrilled. No hot shower (which I was really missing after 12 days of bucket showers with lukewarm water), colorful children's bedding, which also raised questions about cleanliness, and overall it was dirty. If we had taken the previous route, we would have stayed in a hotel with hot water and clean white bedding. But oh well, it was an experience. Tired yet happy, we returned to Bali, which after our stay in Siberut, initially seemed like a mega-developed metropolis to me. Such a striking contrast between the islands.
In conclusion,
This first trip to the Mentawai Islands will stay with me forever. Subsequent trips here didn't evoke the same sense of incredible adventure as the first time.
And yes, traveling to such remote places where mass tourism hasn't fully developed is a special pleasure.
That's the end of my story. I hope you found it engaging, and I look forward to your feedback and comments. Thank you!
Until next time,
Olya.
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I keep saying to my husband that I know I would be happy leaving on island. Bali - is in my bucket list, to see you there- is on my wish board 😘
Captivating post and photos are amazing😍