Life on Bali: Tony's Journey from Rio to Bali
- Olga Kurak
- Feb 9, 2024
- 11 min read
Updated: Jun 13, 2024
Hey there,
Whenever I mention that I live on Bali, most people's reaction is like, "Wow, that's awesome!". People immediately think of life on Bali as palm trees, pristine beaches, colourful ceremonies, yoga, meditation, avocado toast, and green smoothies. Bali is like a dream destination for many, especially for those Instagram bloggers seeking inspiration, transformation, and purification – the list goes on. There's definitely something mystical and enchanting about this island that's hard to put into words, and that's what draws so many people here.
Now, I won't go on about how I found my inner zen or underwent some profound transformation. Nope, none of that happened to me. Bali has given me a lot, but let's face it, my relationship with the Island of the Gods can be a rollercoaster of emotions. I live a pretty normal life here, filled with everyday routines, and yeah, there are moments that can get me down. So, while I absolutely adore Bali, there are times when I get a bit frustrated – things move slowly, I struggle to get things organized on time, and when I do, it doesn't always go as planned. Plus, "tomorrow" here doesn't necessarily mean tomorrow; it could be a week, a month, or never if you don't remind people a few times. But these frustrations pass quickly, and I remind myself that similar situations happen everywhere.
Yet, despite it all, I find myself falling in love with life on Bali over and over again.
But you know what I find most fascinating? The PEOPLE here. The Balinese people, Indonesians from other islands, each with their own unique culture, language, and appearance; expats and tourists from all corners of the globe. I am constantly meeting someone new, and in communicating, I discover something new, somehow I learn – and it's so cool.
I really want to share stories with you about the people we work with, those we become friends with, or those we randomly meet in a café for the first and last time in life, having a cup of coffee and engaging in such sincere conversations that we forget about time for 2 hours.
I've been thinking about how to structure our conversations with guests, and here's what I've come up with: I'll ask a question, they'll give their answer, and I'll throw in some notes if needed to help you understand what we're talking about, especially for those who've never set foot on Bali.
So, let's dive in! My first guest is Antonio, but his friends and family call him Tony. He'll tell you more about himself.
Olya (O): Hi Tony. Thanks for agreeing to chat. Please, tell us about yourself, where you're from, and what you do.
Tony (T): Hey! Glad to be on your blog ;) I was born, raised, went to school and university in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. I graduated from the business management faculty, worked in the restaurant business, in a bank, and had my own business in Rio de Janeiro. Like most of my friends from Rio, I've been surfing since childhood. I guess you know, we met with Santiago, your husband now, through our shared passion for surfing and mutual friends, back when we were around 12. And it was surfing that brought me to Bali for the first time.
O: Yeah, I know, you guys go way back. Tell us about your first trip to Bali.
T: I was 19 years old. Bali was already a very popular destination among surfers worldwide, and by then, many surfers from Brazil had come here. It was my dream. I arrived on Bali all by myself in May 1996, and spent unforgettable 2 months here. I made a bunch of new friends on the second day. I used to come to Bali very often by myself and never felt lonely. It's a place where you quickly find friends.
O: Bali in the 90s – that must have been interesting. What's the difference between then and now? How did you spend your leisure time?
T (laughs): It's hard to compare Bali then and now. Uluwatu was a famous spot among surfers worldwide that everyone dreamed of visiting. But there was nothing there in Uluwatu at the time, except for a few warungs* where we could grab some nasi goreng** or other local dishes.
My notes: *warung – a general term for local eateries serving Indonesian cuisine; **nasi goreng – basically fried rice, a popular Indonesian dish; it has many variations depending on the region; its main ingredients are rice, vegetables, spices, soy sauce, eggs, and it can also include chicken, fish, or seafood.
T: Everyone used to hang out in Kuta, which was the center of all tourist activity back then. There were nightclubs, warungs, small hotels, guesthouses. Everything was very simple. And to surf, we'd go to Uluwatu. There were no proper roads or beach access points like now. We'd drive as far as we could, then trek through the jungle down to the beaches. During leisure time, like most surfers, I'd go to other islands – the Mentawai Islands, Lombok, and Sumbawa.
My notes: If you're not into surfing, chances are you haven't heard of Mentawai, Lombok, Sumbawa. They're like meccas for surfers from around the world, back then and even now. These are highly renowned surfing destinations that attract professional surfers and surfing enthusiasts from all over the world, then as in the 90s and now. Many surfers today may even skip Bali altogether and head straight there because their goal is to catch good waves. Tourism there isn't as developed as in Bali, there's not as much crowd, so the nature is incredible, everything is very authentic. Santi and I traveled to these islands, and it feels like being in Bali in the 80s-90s. It's like stepping back in time.
O: I've had some experience traveling to these islands in 2022-2023, and looking back at those inter-island journeys on those local wooden boats brings up a mix of emotions. It's hard for me to imagine what it was like back then.
T: Absolutely, air travel connections between the islands weren't as sophisticated as they are today. We used to hop on ferries and, like you said, those local wooden boats.
O: After your initial visit, when did you return to Bali?
T: I came back right after a year, in 1999, and from 2003 onwards, I started coming annually. Until 2002, I stayed in Kuta, but from 2003 onwards, it was Uluwatu. At that time, there were only two hotels in Uluwatu: Padang Inn and Ayu Guna Inn. I think the development of Uluwatu was influenced by the opening of Single Fin Uluwatu in 2012. Since then, the number of regular tourists, not just surfers, has started to increase.
My notes: Single Fin Uluwatu (Instagram @singlefinbali) is an iconic spot, well-known beyond Indonesia. It's a major tourist destination, recommended by travel guides. You can chill out after surfing, enjoy some tasty food, catch a sunset on the terrace overlooking the ocean, and stick around for a party.
O: When did you first decide to invest here? What was it?
T: In 2007, I bought my first plot of land in Uluwatu.
O: Can you tell us how much the land value has increased now compared to then?
T: It's increased approximately 10 times.
O: That's a fantastic investment! What did you do with the land?
T: I built a house there in 2011.
O: Was it for personal use or did you venture into tourism by renting it out?
T: In 2011, we hadn't heard of Airbnb yet, and the concept of "villa rentals" didn't exist. So, until 2016, the house was for personal use. Then, my neighbour shared some info about Airbnb with me: "There's this website, you can rent out your villa to tourists," and that changed everything. I started renting out the house and simultaneously started thinking about further investments in Bali. Mostly, I invested in land, trying to diversify locations. I had an intuitive sense that Bingin* would develop quickly and become a popular holiday spot. And that's exactly what happened.
My notes: Bingin is the name of a famous beach on Bukit and the tourist area nearby.
O: What happened next?
T: I wrapped up my businesses in Brazil and moved with my family to live in Bali in 2018. And I started thinking about a business on the island. I decided to invest in villa construction. There wasn't a clear vision at the beginning; I just wanted a project that would be quickly built, simple in design and architecture, relatively inexpensive. It all started with something simple, but it ended up with the idea of building a boutique hotel. Santiago created the initial architectural design, and I wanted to find an investor to join me in its realization. Then, amidst all these plans, in early 2020, I went to visit my family in Brazil and boom – COVID hit, followed by lockdowns. Life came to a standstill.
О: Well, it felt like the end of the world, didn't it? What happened with your projects?
T: After some initial shock and anticipation, I decided to revive the projects. I needed an investor for the hotel. There was a project developed, a business plan laid out, and I was on the lookout. Then, an investor came along quite unexpectedly. A man called me after seeing my land sale advertisement. We had a conversation, I explained about Bingin, the hotel project, and he showed interest. I asked Santiago to show him the site, to explain the project. I was in Brazil, all negotiations were done over the phone. And that's it - we became business partners. Then followed the legal formalities, with Santiago acting as my representative on site.
O: So, you found an investor for your project during the lockdown, and all of this was done remotely? When were you able to return to Bali?
T: Yes, surprisingly, the lockdown turned out to be a productive time for me! I returned in September 2020.
O: There are quite diverse reviews about construction experiences in Bali. What's your story?
T: We had to choose between three builders. We talked to them, checked their portfolios, looked into reviews of their work. The cheapest one was out almost immediately, as it turned out he wasn't honest with finances and even had legal issues in his country because of it. Then, there were two left, let's call them Builder 1, who had more completed projects in their portfolio and was more expensive, and Builder 2, who had less experience, but his last project - a hotel we saw - was well-made, plus his estimate was slightly cheaper than Builder 1's. We chose Builder 2 - and were disappointed almost immediately, we ended our cooperation with him after 2 months. Without going into details, the main reason for terminating the contract between us was his unprofessionalism. Then we signed a contract with Builder 1. And everything fell into place. Construction progressed according to schedule, all the flaws of the previous Builder 2 were rectified. Of course, there are always some work-related issues, but that's normal. And on August 31, 2021, the first guests checked into Gypsea Bali Boutique Hotel & Restaurant.
O: 2021 was still under lockdown. How did your business develop then and now?
T: Gypsea Bali Boutique Hotel and Temple Villas Uluwatu (a complex of 3 villas, which I started building in 2021 and completed in spring 2022) exceeded all our expectations. These projects were successful from the start, despite being opened during lockdown. Then in mid-2022, the pandemic ended, Bali lifted all travel restrictions, and there was a crazy boom. After two years of lockdown, people around the world were eager to travel again.
O: What was the occupancy of the hotel and villas in 2023?
T: If I tell you, you won't believe it! The hotel reached about 90-95% occupancy, while the villas were slightly lower at 80-85%.
O: Wow! Incredible results. What's the situation with hiring staff in Bali?
T: Honestly, it's easier for me here with people than it was in Brazil. I don't see any issues finding qualified staff, and working with them is enjoyable.
O: What advice would you give to those who want to invest in Bali and start construction?
T: I've shared our experience with you, and as you can see, we couldn't avoid mistakes. We learned from our own experience. My advice: thoroughly check the information about the builder, architect, and don't fall for the "cheap price" - more often than not, it leads to future problems.
O: Are you planning any new business ventures here?
T: Yes, my business partner and I have exciting plans to launch the Ulu Fish Market soon. It's an innovative concept combining a restaurant and a fish market under one roof, where you can always buy fresh seafood and fish, have them cooked on the spot, or order something from the menu. We're also starting the construction of the new Alma hotel in Bingin in February.
O: Why another hotel and not villas this time?
T: I believe that tourists who come for a few days or a week prefer hotels. They don't want to worry about organizing everything themselves; they just want to relax and enjoy full service. Villas are more suitable for longer stays, from one month and beyond.
O: Let's talk about your family. Where do you live? How is it living in Bali with children?
T: We live in Uluwatu, haven't changed our location for years. My daughter attends an English-speaking school of good quality. She has friends there, and the school has children from different countries, so she communicates in English. There are plenty of activities to do with children here, not to mention the beautiful nature, beaches, and the ocean. Bali offers everything for a happy childhood. I don't see any difficulties living in Bali with children.
O: How do you spend your free time?
T: I meet with friends, spend time with my daughter, go to the gym, the beach, and of course, surf. I also love traveling. My favorites are Lombok and Sumbawa; they're the best places for surfing.
O: What's your vision for Bali's future? What challenges are investors and business owners facing now?
T: Bali has been developing rapidly, but there are some issues with the local government that need to be addressed for this process to be better organized. Otherwise, problems in the future are inevitable. Chaotic construction in green zones* needs to be stopped; there should be control over compliance with building regulations. A comprehensive plan with architectural requirements and aesthetic standards for new buildings should be established. Today, you might build a villa with an ocean view, surrounded by beautiful nature, but in six months, a 5-story monster with 200 apartments starts construction right next to you. You understand that this building lacks proper access for transportation, both during construction and afterwards for tourists, it ruins the overall look and the surrounding environment, and there are major issues with utilities. 200 apartments mean potentially 400 people living there simultaneously, how do we provide water for them in Bali? The island is currently facing a critical water shortage, especially the Bukit Peninsula, which is currently undergoing intense development. This is a crucial issue that needs to be addressed. Furthermore, as tourists continue to increase, so does vehicular traffic, resulting in hours-long traffic jams – a problem that can only be solved by building new roads.
My notes: In Bali, land is divided into zones based on colors. Depending on the color, we know what can be built there. In the yellow zone, you can build villas for personal use; in the red, land is designated for business; pink is for tourist zones; orange combines various types of activities. And the green zone - where the strictest rules regarding construction prohibition apply. But due to corruption in local authorities, many people are building in green zones. This destroys nature and is also a very risky business for investors, as it violates the law.
O: Do you plan to stay in Bali forever?
T: There are no long-term plans like that, but I'm definitely here for the next 5 years. Beyond that, we'll see.
O: One last question: are you happy in Bali?
T: Yes, I'm happy :)
That concludes our interview. I hope you found it insightful. Feel free to drop any additional questions in the comments, and I'll make sure to pass them on to Tony to get answers.
At the beginning of our conversation with Tony, we mentioned the Mentawai Islands. And I got an idea for the next post: I'll tell you about my trip to these islands. It was an fascinating adventure, unlike any of my previous travels.
See you soon,
Olya.
Your posts are fascinating. I am in anticipation of a new one about the Mentawai Islands, seems it was funny trip:)